Hawaii Highlights: The Big Island

Words & Pictures by Tommy Murphy

Hawaii is paradise – there’s no other word to describe it.

Stunning beaches, green mountains, volcanoes, crystal clear water, lush vegetation, friendly people – Hawaii is unlike anywhere else in the USA.

Hawaii is composed of eight major islands, and I had the opportunity to visit two of these to celebrate my 38th birthday.

Why Hawaii?

Well, I’ve visited all 48 mainland states (Alaska, you’re next!), and what better place to go in the winter than a tropical island where I could spend every day at the beach – all while ticking off my 49th US state!

The islands I most wanted to visit were Hawai’i (or the Big Island) and O’ahu, the most populated and visited Hawaiian island.

Rugged and sparsely populated, the Big Island is the youngest of the Hawaiian Islands, created from volcanic eruptions. Igneous rock dominates many landscapes and beaches on the Big Island, but there are also lush rainforests, black sand beaches, and volcanoes.

I fell in love with it, and I’ll walk you through four highlights that made my experience on the Big Island so very special.

Highlight #1: Snorkeling Expedition

For my 38th birthday, we decided to go snorkeling for the first time.

Our tour was with Sea Quest in Keauhou Bay, and they provided an absolutely incredible experience (even though we departed at 9am – very early for a weekend day, particularly on my birthday!).

Regardless, the weather was perfect – sunny and a bit hazy.

Joining us on this expedition was a middle-aged Japanese couple, a college-aged girl from Australia, and a married straight couple from Minnesota.

Our guide / captain was joined by an assistant, and both had a very laid-back, Hawaiian attitude.

For the three-hour excursion, we would be snorkeling in three locations along the Big Island’s western coast, and while boating to the snorkeling spots, we saw a whale tail break the water (apparently, they migrate to Hawaii during the winter).

At each snorkeling area, we found reefs teeming with life. Countless fish of all colors, ancient-looking turtles, and a graceful, yet frightening eel swam below us.

We were the only boat in two of three stops, which was a rarity, according to our captain. Kealakekua Bay (with the Captain James Cook memorial) was one of the snorkeling stops, and I couldn’t begin to count the vast array of marine life.

Highlight #2: Cross-Island Trek to Hilo

On our second full day on the Big Island, we decided that we’d traverse across the island, and head for Hilo.

We headed northeast from Kailua-Kona, then turned to the east on HI 200, skirting around Mauna Kea (the highest mountain on earth, at 33,000 ft.).

There was very little to see on the drive other than views of Mauna Kea and some military bases.

Driving up Mauna Kea is something I’d like to do eventually, but the road is said to be quite treacherous, so we opted to keep Big Jenny (our rental truck) safe, and not risk any fees from the rental company!

Transitioning from the leeward to the windward side of the island, we saw sloping mountains and volcanic rock gently transform into light green grass, then dense, green rainforest. Vegetation and humidity increased as we entered Hilo, the Big Island’s largest city.

Hilo is more like a slightly run-down hipster enclave.

Downtown Hilo isn’t necessarily beautiful, but it has laid-back buzz and energy that make it the perfect counter-balance to Kailua-Kona, its much more affluent and touristy counterpart on the west coast of the island.

If Kailua-Kona attracts people who want all of the modern conveniences of the mainland, then Hilo is a hipster enclave that attracts people who want to live off the grid.

It’s a small city that feels like someone recently took a machete to cut the jungle down around it, but this gives it an unrefined charm that I really enjoyed experiencing.

Highlight #3: Volcanoes and Black Sand Beaches

After leaving Hilo, we drove along HI 11, just north of Kilauea’s ongoing eruption, toward Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.

The fee to enter the National Park is $25 per vehicle, and it is well worth it. The visitor’s center has some nice information, and offers a good spot for a bathroom break, but what makes it incredible is seeing the smoke across the horizon.

From random holes in the ground, steam is constantly rising – it really is a sight to behold. Kilauea is the main focal point – an impossibly huge crater with smoke coming out of it non-stop. It was impossible to comprehend the sheer size of this caldera.

There are multiple viewing points along the short drive (many roads are closed due to ongoing eruptions), ending at the Jagger Museum.

We then drove over to the Thurston Lava Tube (Nahuku), a tunnel created by bursting lava. You can walk through the lava tube – an incredible experience!

After leaving the National Park, we continued southwest on HI 11 toward Punalu’u Black Sand Beach.

This was one of the destinations that I was most excited to see.

When we arrived at the beach, there were just a few people enjoying the last bit of daylight.

The black sand was unlike anything I’d ever seen – it looked like a beach made of coal dust, and it was breathtaking.

We sat and just took in the incredible scenery as a storm began to roll in.

I will forever remember the peaceful breezes mixed with the energy of an impending storm – as it truly represents the incredible contrasts of this living island.

Highlight #4: Pololu Valley

On our final full day in Hawaii, we decided that we’d drive to the north side of the island to see some beaches and waterfalls, and do a bit of hiking.

We drove north on HI 190 toward Waimea, a quaint, charming town characterized by lush green fields and mountains on the horizon. In many ways, it looked more like the British Isles than Hawaii – it was such unexpected landscape!

We continued north on HI 250 climbing up along Kohala, one of the five volcanoes on the Big Island.

Since Kohala has been extinct for roughly 120,000 years, it has eroded into a gentle mountain rising above lush, green countryside.

Once we descended, we turned right onto HI 270, a narrow, winding road with thick vegetation on both sides of the road. Flowers, vines, and fruit trees lined the road, as it crossed gentle creeks and brooks – it’s how I’d envision the road to the Garden of Eden might look.

The road dead ends at Pololu Valley Lookout, a parking and view area where you can then continue to hike down to the beach and lagoon. The hike is short, but quite steep.

 

With the heat and humidity, it can also wear you out, so keep that in mind, but the views were absolutely worth it!

The beach was a combination of rounded rocks and black sand – it was like stepping into a completely different world. Because it is a bit difficult to get to, it felt somewhat isolated and serene, like you’d found paradise at the end of the world.

After walking around and enjoying the beauty, we hiked back up, and I was sweating profusely!

Thankfully, there was a large water cooler in the parking area – some of the people that live there fill it every morning and leave cups so that the stupid people (I’m pointing at myself) who didn’t bring water can have some! I’m very grateful for these kind neighbors!

Driving south on HI 270 takes you through some small villages until you’re once again driving along the island’s west coast.

We ended our day at Hapuna Beach, a stunning, wide, white sand beach. We swam in the warm water, enjoying the crashing waves and sat on the shore until sunset, watching the sky change from orange to pink to purple.

So, there are my Big Island highlights. It’s unlike anywhere I’ve ever traveled: rugged and remote, wild, unbridled, and yet genteel and charming…

There’s so much more to see on this vast island, and I can’t wait for my next visit!

Find out more about what Tommy’s up to, at The Wayfaring Stranger